What is guipure lace? Guipure vs chemical lace vs shuttle lace explained

One lace, many names

Guipure lace is an embroidered lace with no visible background fabric. The design is stitched onto a base that is later dissolved, leaving only the embroidered threads connected to each other. Depending on where you are, the same product is called chemical lace (because the base is removed chemically), GPO lace (a trade abbreviation of guipure), venise or Venice lace (from the historic Italian style), and in Pakistan shuttle lace, after the shuttle embroidery machines that make it.

How shuttle lace is made in Faisalabad

Shuttle embroidery machines carry hundreds of needles across a wide frame. The design is embroidered in rows onto a water-soluble or chemically removable base. After embroidery the base is washed away, the lace is dried, cut into individual strips, wound onto rolls and bundled by colour.

Because every strip is embroidered rather than knitted or woven, the lace has a raised, textured surface and clean scalloped edges that hold their shape after washing.

Guipure vs net lace

Net laces such as Chantilly or Raschel lace are built on a visible mesh. Guipure has no mesh: the motifs touch each other directly. That makes guipure heavier, more dimensional and far more durable at hems and edges, which is why it dominates South Asian ladies wear, abayas and hijabs.

• Guipure: no net, raised motifs, durable scalloped edge, washes well
• Net lace: mesh ground, lighter and more transparent, more delicate

Sizes and how they are used

Guipure lace trims are sold by width. In our range: zero size (about 1 cm) for hijab edges, cuffs and kids wear; medium size (about 2 to 5 cm) for kurta hems, dupattas and sleeves; center patti (about 4 to 6 cm, plain on both edges) for shirt fronts and panels; and scarf lace (3 to 5 inches, the widest, with a deep scalloped edge) for scarves, abayas and dupattas.

How to buy guipure lace in bulk

Lace is sold by the roll, measured in yards (gaz) or metres, and bundled by colour range. Ask the factory for the width in millimetres, yards per roll, the number of colours in the range, the minimum order, and whether custom colours or designs are possible. Request a sample roll before committing to a programme.